Leaving Lofotens, First Ferry,

Thursday 27 September. On waking, I checked the weather forecast.

Although the day looked good, I decided to err on the side of caution, leave the Lofotens and head south. Setting the coordinates for my destination, it meant a ferry crossing, my first of the tour. The cost was about £65 (you’re charged by length and I’ve got a long one) but, doing the math, driving the long way would have cost as much in fuel, and the four hours saved, plus a cruise down the fjord made it a done deal.

After waiting at the port for over an hour and a half because the ferry was leaving as I arrived, she returned.

It was a lovely journey. The blue skies over the Lotofen Islands stretching into the distance

made me question my decision, but you can’t worry about the road untraveled. My road had brought me to a lovely ferry trip.

I was leaving winter and returning to autumn.

My onward journey was amazing. It was like Norway was shuffling a deck of cards and dealing hands of every combination of sunshine, rain, sleet, mist, steep ascent, steep descent, hairpin bends, rollercoasters, rivers, waterfalls, lakes, fjords, fields, forest, mountains, tree covered and bare, that got bigger. And tunnels. I’d enter from one landscape, the cards would be shuffled and dealt and I’d exit into somewhere completely different. I began to hear Norway shout, “ta-da!” every time I drove out of a tunnel. And don’t get me started on the roadworks, narrow roads and following two huge pieces of plant, with an escort running ahead to try and keep tunnels clear because they needed to go down the middle.

Driving in Norway is an assault on the senses and tests your nerve but is wonderful.

Finally, after a second gear climb out of the city of Bodø, I parked up here,

with a view of the island of Landegode. A short walk around a couple of nearby lakes,

and the light on the island had changed.


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